Bonnet ring arrived. These pictures show it in place, lining the hole between the inner and outer bonnet skins. Question is, what colour to have it, silver or black?
Decided to keep the ring unfinished aluminium despite the DDK poll favouring black! Simon @ AA Autos repainted the bonnet for me to clean up the hole edges and cover the holes (and deformation) from the old bonnet handle. Bonnet is back (and looks great!) and I've fixed the trim ring permanently in place (self tappers and silicon). Also fitted the leather bonnet straps I bought ages ago. Plus, I've also made a tray to bolt the new fuel tank down onto ; the top side is flat and the bottom contoured to fit the under-bonnet area.
After some head scratching, and with my father-in-laws help, I've finally managed to fit the Ahnendorp exhaust header. It was far from easy. Top tip - I super-glued the copper gaskets to the exhaust ports to hold them in place whilst offering up the exhaust! From an initial trial fit, it looks like the silencer system will just clear the Kafer brace brackets. Phew! Need to design a custom tail-pipe section to bring an oval tail-pipe out centrally.
I've also finished making the plug for the under dash panel to hold all the new gauges, air vents, and switches.
Taken a mould from the plug, so can now use this to make the actual panel. Slightly involved, but it does mean I can supply the panel to other people if there is demand for it.img class='captionme' src="../images/revamp/dash_mould.jpg" width="571" height="154" title="" />
Turned my focus this past weekend to the area under the fuel tank which needs to be complete prior to fitting the tank. The new master cylinder was leaking from a couple of the blanking plugs so it had to come out, have the plugs refitted, and go back in again.
I also completed the under fuel tank install of the Webasto petrol air heater. This involved connecting the fuel metering pump, air inlet hose, and exhaust hoses up to the heater and securing them. The exhaust is covered in a heat resistant wrap and fixed to the front beam and the pan, holding it rigid. The air intake hose is fixed to the centre of the frame head, and the metering pump next to the heater mounting plate. The picture also shows the Mallory fuel filter and pump for the engine.
I also fitted the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) sensors on the manifold pipes for #1 and #3 (The CHT are on #2 and #4, so all 4 cylinders are monitored). They fit through a 5mm hole in tube and secure with a hose clip style arrangement.
Wired up the CHT and EGT sensors to the additional loom i'd routed as far as the battery box. Also wired in the oxygen sender, taking power from the ballast resistor via a new fuse.
Ordered custom hoses for the remote oil filter during the week and these arrived the following day. My remote filter head is 1/2" BSP thread with a M14 sender tapping. The oil pump and return are both 3/8" NPT. I used an M14 T piece with a 1/8" NPT side port to mount the oil pressure sender for my gauge, and a 1/8" NPT to M14 adaptor for the temperature sender. The bore of the M14 mean't there was room for the oil temperature sender tip. Mounted the filter head on a piece of 18mm waterproof ply that I varnished as a spacer to ensure I could use a large diameter filter with it in future. It all tucked up in the rear wheel arch - here is a view from below.
Took a moulding from my dash mould to finally end up with a useable dash board panel. Turned out very well if I say so myself. Just needs trimming and one bubble patching up.
Been trying to work out where to put the stereo speakers. They used to be under the dash facing downwards but never really sounded very good and the space is now taken by the webasto heater and (to be fitted) ducting. They could have fitted on the side of the footwell but this would mean glueing the carpet to follow the shape of the footwell exactly and I prefer it taught disguising the real shape. So I've decided to put the speakers in the sides of the rear seat. This means making pods to fit in the void behind the seats (almost in the rear wheel wells if you like) to encapsulate the rear of the speakers. I'm moulding these in GRP using a couple of cut-down flower-pots as moulds!
Tidied up the dash moulding, and bonded the top support to it. Then turned it into a piece of swiss cheese cutting all the 15 required holes in it for the switches, gauges, and vents. It then looked like this
After another trial fitting we (my wife and I) covered it in leather left over from originally trimming the car, and then cut the required holes through the leather and fitted the switches et al in place. Here's a picture of it offered up in the car (not quite the final position).
Very pleased with my handiwork!
I've also completed the rear speakers, riveting and bonding the enclosures in place behind the sides of the rear seats. There is plenty of clearance to the tyres.
Refitted the seat panels after cutting the holes for the speakers.
That is all the messy interior jobs finished so next I can complete reinstalling the interior.
Also fitted a high level third brake light under the engine grill.
Finished connecting up all the electrics for the dash and connected the battery to test all the new circuits. Everything was working apart from the fuel pump relay which needed to go in parallel with the existing oil pressure warning light rather than in series to source sufficient current for the relay to operate.
Whilst finishing the wiring I connected up the stereo and fitted it in position. It sounds much better with the speakers in the rear seats than it did with them under the dashboard.
Fitted the remaining carpets after tightening the fuel line junctions that run under it. Also replaced the accelerator cable as the original one had some kinks in it and didn't move smoothly enough.
I've also filled the engine with oil, removed the spark plugs and turned it over on the starter for a minute to get oil pressure. Removing the plugs allows the engine to turn over more quickly and puts less stresses on the bearings whilst they have a poor oil feed. I then replaced the plugs ready to test run the engine which can be done as soon as i've leak tested the fuel lines.
Temporarily i've fitted one of the BAS exhaust silencers facing backwards rather than forwards. This should make it tolerably noisy for an initial run!
Despite replacing the throttle cable and adjusting and clamping the throttle cable tube in the DTM shroud the linkage does not reliably return to the throttle stop, so I've added an additional return spring to each carb. I used a piece of L-shaped aluminium to make a simple bracket on one of the mounting bolts for the spring to fix to.
I also cut a hole in the carpet to allow the accelerator pedal to achieve full throttle more easily; Previously the deflecting carpet was getting in the way.
Bought some ducting and Y junctions for the Webasto heater so was able to connect up the outlets and the demisters. It all fits neatly out of sight as I'd hoped. The white outlet in the photo is an extra piece siliconed into one of the Y's to connect the passenger demister (there wasn't room for a second Y to connect it without making this modification)
All of this is hidden to the casual observer.
One of the final jobs was to sort out mounting the fuel tank, using the moulded tray that i'd made previously. I set rivinuts into the car compartment for the tray to bolt down onto, and also set rivinuts in the tray for the tank to bolt down onto that. I made a heat-shield for underside as the Webasto exhaust is beneath. The tank is mounted on 6mm foam to absorb vibration.
Fitted in the car, It looks like this. Thought this was a good home for some stickers i've collected. This was fitted just to check everything lined up as I still needed to pressurise the fuel system to check for leaks.
I hooked up a 1 gallon fuel canister the to fuel pump and started the pump. Pretty quickly found a loose AN fitting in the engine compartment I'd thought i'd tightened but apart from this everything was dry with the 5 PSI pressure the pump was generating (Need to adjust this at the pump to <3 PSI).
Finally I was able to fire this baby up. It started amazing easily once i'd sorted out the HT leads. The (LOUD) sound of the engine running is difficult to describe - it really THUMP THUMP THUMPED. I'll try and capture a sound recording.
That just leaves fitted the fuel tank and bolting in the seats, and car can be driven for a first test drive. I can't wait.
Bolted in the seats, fitted the tank, filled it with 15 litres of fuel, and gave it a wash to remove 6 months of dust.
Took it for a 200 yard drive and am very impressed with the engine. Need to make an adjustment to the rear suspension prior to a proper drive as the car is sitting very low. Exhaust looks stupid but is functional until I get a Powerflow system custom made next week.
5th June 2005
My local Powerflow dealer had the car for three days to custom make a central-exiting exhaust system to connect to the BAS header. They've managed to fabricate something that doesn't get in the way of the valve covers which is great!
Driven a couple of ten mile journeys and noticed that the CHT wasn't very balanced between the left and right banks. Also noticed a rough idle. Tracked this down today to a blocked idle jet on #4 cylinder, blew it out with compressed air and the engine is transformed.
Verdict on the Raby built Type IV: WOW!
And this ends Phase 2 of the build.