This is the donor beetle's 1600cc engine and as you can see its In need of a large amount of refurbishment. It seems to be the original engine from when the vehicle was new. The tinware very rusty - some beyond salvage.
Having heard bad reports about certain remanufactured engines on the UK market, I eventually chose a REMTEC unit from SSP / VW Heritage. This is a 1641cc unit with a ENGLE W100 CAM, and 009. I intend to replace the 009 with a Mallory Unilite distributor, with vacuum advance, and run kadrons. I'll convert to an Alternator, and refurbish/replace other ancillaries as required.
Ordered a Mallory distributor from Century Performance in the states.
Tinware sent off for powder coating (RED). Realised though, that new rear tinware without pre-heat is not compatible with the pulley tin that I'd expected to be able to reuse.
Picked up powder coating (Trestan have done an excellent job once again) and returned old engine to VW Heritage to get back deposit. Bought the correct pulley tinware and collected oil-cooler that had been on back order. Can now partially re-assemble engine tinware, though won't be able to replace pulley until I get the pulley tin powder coated to match the rest of the engine.
The Mallory distributor, coil, and advance curve adjustment kit have arrived from Century Performance.
Cleaned up and tested thermostat, and degreased, zinc primed, and painted thermostat flaps. Others cooling parts were already power coated or YZP.
Assembled alternator sub-assembly, and oil cooler.
Assembled alternator and cooling flaps into fan housing, ready to fit to engine.
Built up engine as far as possible. Need to make another trip to VW Heritage for fuel pump actuator rod and heat exchangers, plus need to buy a Kadron kit (Will source from AJ Sims in USA). Engine stand doesn't allow me to rotate engine so unable to fit new distributor until later.
No further progress made... need to buy parts.
Trial fitted fuel pump, added thrust washer to alternator pulley. No other progress.
Bought another batch of parts Saturday so can continue with build. Have new fuel pump rod (for alternator version) so can add fuel pump, clutch, heat exchangers, missing tinware (though some still on back order), and miscellaneous items (some of which need YZP before fitting).
Trial fitted the kadron carb linkage. The mounting bracket fouled the new brazilian fuel pump that I have fitted and so needed grinding back a little to clear. Will fit once back from powder coating.
The Kadron carb kit from AJ Sims in the USA has arrived. Why not buy them in the UK I here you ask? Well, for about the same price including shipping and duty I got a set customized to my engine (venturie, idle, main, air), tested, manifolds skimmed, and a vacuum port added to connect to my Mallory distributor.
Chemically stripping the new heat exchangers of paint ready to recoat them with some POR high temperature aluminium coloured paint; hopefully this will last longer than the already scratched original coating would....
Started fitting the Kadrons. Linkage, manifolds, and carbs in place. Need to fit the fuel and balance hoses. I'll use a T piece off the balance pipe to feed the servo.
Taken the engine off its stand ready to fit the clutch and mate it to the gearbox which is now fitted to the chassis.
Engine now fitted to gearbox in chassis! See Chassis section.
Fitted the heat exchangers and lower tin. Had to clearance the pattern cylinder head tins and lower tin to clear the exhaust manifold both front and back.
Cut all the fuel hoses to length from the 2 metres of braided 6mm fuel line I bought, and made up a rigid 1/4 pipe to link up to the chassis rigid line and fuel filter prior to the (mechanical) fuel pump.
Also planned and made the servo vacuum lines, again with a rigid 5/16 pipe to link up to the chassis rigid line and the Kadron manifold balance pipes. Supported the rigid pipe from the oil cooler ducting tin.
Fitted the Mallory Unilite distributor in place of the Bosch 009. I had a vacuum port added to the Kadrons so that I could run with vacuum as well as mechanical advance. I'm also using a Mallory coil, and 8mm leads. The coil will mount on the rear bodywork with the ballast resistor.
Just need the various hoseclips before I can finalize the routing of all the hoses and leads.
Having bought hose clips, i've finished routing vacuum and fuel lines. I've also fitted suitable ends on the pertonix HT leads for the distributor and coil.
Filled engine and geabox with oil, having replaced the standard engine sump plug with the one chesil provided containing the oil sender for the oil temperature gauge. The sender was awkward to seal well to the case - a phone call to chesil, a solid copper washer, and PTFE tape were the solution. Oh, I also replaced the rocker covers with aluminium bolt-on ones.
Had huge problems with the crankshaft pulley. It wouldn't fit into the engine correctly. The case had been line bored to 50.5mm and the pulley was supposed to be suitably oversized at 50.4mm - but it was also 50.5mm. A replacement 50.4mm pulley from Heritage who supplied the REMTEC engine solved the problem.... (thanks Nigel!)
Also had huge problems with the timing. The REMTEC engine distributor drive was not aligned as per specification but about 190 degrees out! So when you think cylinder 1 should fire, its actually cylinder 3.... Not a problem once you work it out though!
Running the engine on the starter bought the oil pressure sender open circuit so oil pressure was being generated. I then temporarily connected up the coil and distributor to see if I could get the engine to run - which it did after a little fiddling around with the distributor. Rather load without an exhaust though!! Timing was set to about 10 degrees at idle - i'll sort this out more once I have an exhaust and have also verified the location of my pulley's TDC mark.
Fitted the rear tin in preparation for fitting the body.
Fitted the engine cover panels to seal up the engine bay. One goes around the engine tin-ware horizontally and bolts to the rear subframe; the other sits in front of the engine and bolts to the body behind the battery box (this piece needs to be resting in place before you fit the body if the engine is in place).
Fixed the balance/brake servo feed pipe to the bulkhead and cut the wiring to length. Coil and ballast resistor are fixed beside engine cover catch.
The remaining build of the car is detailed in the chassis and body sections.